viper69
Jan 9 2004, 21:53
I am building a new computer...what's out there that's fast in the CD Burning arena, I haven't looked in months.
Thanks,
AtaqueEG
Jan 9 2004, 23:11
I don't know how "fast" you need to burn, but I would go with a 52x LiteOn.
Those are very reliable.
Or, if you can afford it, get a Plextor (that way you get a good alternative on secure ripping).
/\/ephaestous
Jan 10 2004, 02:51
perhaps a DVD+-RW drive... .
I have an "optowrite" which is some cheap 40x CD burner. It hasn't failed me yet (or really caused any problems whatsoever)
David Nordin
Jan 10 2004, 03:13
I'd recommend a 52x LG (8523B) which is a cheap reliable drive with good DAE capabilities aswell.
R.A.F.
Jan 10 2004, 03:43
I don´t know.... But at this time I wouldn´t buy myself a CD-burner anymore.
My calculation goes as follows: Cheap CD-burner costs ~ 50 € + DVD-ROM ~ 35 € = 85 € in total. Good 4x Multi-DVD-burners (a few weeks ago I bought a BTC 1004 IM, which can also burn DVD+RW with 4times speed (CD-R 40x/CD-RW 24x); grabbing speed of it with EAC in secure-mode, C2-error-correction switched off, is around 14 x), are available for ~110 €. So, for only 25 € more you get the capability to burn DVD´s. And you have additionally a 5,25 "-slot free on your computer-case, which can be used for other devices.
BadMath
Jan 10 2004, 13:01
If you're looking for just a straight up CD-RW with good DAE abilities I recommend the LiteOn 52246S.
It's what I am using right now. Perfect C2 error correction (supposedly), offset of 0, and low price. Oh yeah, and it burns CD's fast too.
QUOTE(BadMath @ Jan 10 2004, 07:01 PM)
If you're looking for just a straight up CD-RW with good DAE abilities I recommend the LiteOn 52246S.
It has been replaced by the LTR-52327S.
QUOTE
It's what I am using right now. Perfect C2 error correction (supposedly), offset of 0, and low price. Oh yeah, and it burns CD's fast too.
It's not so much about error correction than about C2 error
detection. The offset for both drives is (edit:) +6. I burn at 24x speed. Yes, the price is low...
By the way, the Lite-On
DVD burners aren't this good, especially at 8x speed (see c't 1/04 and 2/04).
penvzila
Jan 10 2004, 14:11
I am considering ordering this baby to replace my Verbatim^H^H^H^HMSI burner, which is having fits lately.
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc....y=BROWSE&depa=1Any specific models of Plextor reccommended over this one?
ZipZoomFly is a very good place to buy drive in US. They sell that model, although not black, for cheaper...
BadMath
Jan 10 2004, 15:06
QUOTE(CiTay @ Jan 10 2004, 11:56 AM)
It's not so much about error correction than about C2 error detection. The offset for both drives is +12. I burn at 24x speed. Yes, the price is low...
I meant error detection, thanks for the correction.
Are you sure about the offsets though? I remember there being alot of hoopla about the 0 offset when the drive came out originally and I used the EAC Offset CD to detect the offset and it always says 0 (just tested it again). Also, when I first got the drive I decided to test the offset so I found the offset of my old CD drive (24 I believe) and tested that CD drive with the EAC Offset CD as well. Result was also 24. I then ripped a track with it set to 0 offset and ripped the same track on the LiteOn with 0 offset. I compared the wav's in EAC and the tracks were identical except they were 24 samples off.
CiTay, I assume you are using one of the LiteOn drives. Can I ask you what you use for read command, gap detection method, and detection accuracy?
I am using MMC1, Detection Method A, and Secure. I pulled these settings off this site some time ago. What about C2 error detection, do you use it? I have been using it on mine and I have not had one rip where EAC said it was fine but wasn't.
I just read an old thread [http://www.hydrogenaudio.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=14092&st=0&] and it seems it isn't a 0 offset but rather a +6 read and -6 write. So should I be using 0 combined?
I think maybe I burned the EAC Test CD with the improper write offset and since the read offset is the exact opposite it now reports as a 0. I made the CD back when everyone said it was 0 offset.
Any help would be appreciated and sorry to hijack the original posters thread.
QUOTE(BadMath @ Jan 10 2004, 09:06 PM)
I just read an old thread [http://www.hydrogenaudio.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=14092&st=0&] and it seems it isn't a 0 offset but rather a +6 read and -6 write.
Sorry for that... this happens when you have two Lite-On drives and you have the wrong one selected in EAC.
You are right, read offset is +6 and write offset is -6. If you only read and burn with the Lite-On in EAC, you can make it a combined offset (which would be 0). If you use a different drive or program to burn, leave it seperate.
QUOTE
CiTay, I assume you are using one of the LiteOn drives. Can I ask you what you use for read command, gap detection method, and detection accuracy?
Now from the right drive

: MMC1, method A, Accurate, Drive is capable of retrieving C2 info. You can change the Gap retrieval method to "Accurate", "Secure" would only be needed for unreliable drives.
tangent
Jan 11 2004, 08:08
QUOTE(David Nordin @ Jan 10 2004, 05:13 PM)
I'd recommend a 52x LG (8523B) which is a cheap reliable drive with good DAE capabilities aswell.
Don't forget not to stick Mandrake 9.1 into your LG drives...
mj-barton
Jan 12 2004, 00:04
Plextor
huineng
Jan 15 2004, 16:12
I've got both an old Lite-On 16x10x40 and a TDK 48x24x48. The Lite-On was a huge surprise, and I bought it blindly, without seeing any recommendations at the time. I wanted something faster, so I bought the TDK. Audio CDs burned in the TDK, however, hiccup terribly in my Sony car CD player, forcing me to use only my Lite-On for audio.
For the price alone, Lite-On. I believe as far as burning speed, Maximum PC holds it and Plextor pretty close.
svzurich
Jan 16 2004, 06:40
http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetai...ductCode=174402I just ordered this yesterday. It is the MSI DR8-A DVD±R / ±RW Writer and damn, it is now $1.49 cheaper than I paid! LOL
Look at ZipZoomFly's DVD burners, they start at $100 and the low price awed me. I considered buying a 4X burner at $119, but I deemed the 8X an even better deal at $145. The 8X can burn CD-Rs at 40X, and this drive can compress some CD-Rs. The MSI 4X and 8X burners rate decent so far, so I think I picked a great deal. Wish me luck!
Kimberly, finally deciding DVD burning is affordable enough for my pocketbook.
Edit: Also grabbed this deal from them: 25 DVD+RW discs at 4X for $40.
http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetai...ductCode=340816Price was comparable to write once media, and should give me plenty of practice with making test DVDs without worry of wasting expensive media. Also fairly fast, rated as 15 minutes for 4.7 (4.3 usable) GBs burned.
rmoody
Jan 16 2004, 08:06
Yamaha F1, it has an audio mastering mode, it can create an audio CD that is as close to professionally pressed CD as you can get (or that's what they say). Although you will have to slow the burn speed down to achieve this, and lose some space on the CD. I don't use it for DAE as it has audio caching. I only use my burner to burn, and use a Plextor UltraPlex for DAE, don't want to wear my expensive burner out prematurely.
Plextor is always a good choice.
No doubt about what i would have chosen: Plextor Premium 52x32x52x.
I have a Plextor PX-W4824A (48x24x48x) and it has never ever failed me. Works perfectly in every situation. Makes low noise/vibrations, perfect burns. VariRec burned audio cd's works alot better on older cd-players than normally burned audio cd's (greater compatibility), etc, etc. Plextor support/warranty is unmatched.
kotrtim
Jan 16 2004, 09:09
hold on
u can buy a DVD+RW drive later,
the price has dropped a lot
and DVD media price is also reasonable now
and its cheaper than branded CDR in terms of per megabyte
I think you can get 1 Ricoh DVD+RW for around USD 100 now
4X R 4X RW 8X read, I've forgotten the model number
it also supports DVD-RW reading but not writing
doesn't support DVD-RAM
don't bother to buy DVD-RW or dual format +-RW
coz most ppl support +RW, so just ignore -RW
the most important thing is that the writer can support -R/W reading, that's good enough
QUOTE(rmoody @ Jan 16 2004, 03:06 PM)
Yamaha F1
Long discontinued, Yamaha retreated from the CD-RW market. Used exemplars on eBay for ridiculously high prices.
mobius
Jan 16 2004, 10:34
QUOTE(bidz @ Jan 16 2004, 09:54 AM)
I have a Plextor PX-W4824A (48x24x48x) and it has never ever failed me. Works perfectly in every situation. Makes low noise/vibrations, perfect burns.
I bought two of these for systems I built for friends. They were both *very* noisey right off the bat. It was my first experience with 48x so I thought the vibration/noise came with the territory. One failed after 8 months, ~200 burns. It was mechanical. The beverage tray stopped half way out and never moved again. Newegg RMAed the drive and the new one is QUIET. Regarding plextor and quality, I think they have a big head about it. At least their prices reflect that. Take from this what you will.
mobius
danbee
Jan 16 2004, 13:50
QUOTE(CiTay @ Jan 16 2004, 03:32 PM)
QUOTE(rmoody @ Jan 16 2004, 03:06 PM)
Yamaha F1
Long discontinued, Yamaha retreated from the CD-RW market. Used exemplars on eBay for ridiculously high prices.
Kind of a shame really, my SCSI 16x10x40 Yamaha was damn excellent.
I would second the recommendation of getting a DVD burner instead. I bought the Sony DRU-510A which has been great so far.
TheDongfather
Jan 16 2004, 14:25
I own a plextor premium as well... Great drive, but like the others said a dvd drive is more cost effective and feature packed for your buck. However, I would reccomend the PX-708A 8x dvd drive with dual formats as a couple of my friends own it and have had exceptional results.
kl33per
Jan 16 2004, 18:35
Another vote here for either a Plextor (PX-708A (DVD Burner) or a PX-W5232TA (CD Burner)) or a LiteOn LTR-52327S.
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