What CD-Rs can I safely buy and know that they won't die on me? I'm talking like the actual label on the package that you see in the store.
I currently use Maxell CD-R Pros. They seem to have a blue dye. Bad? Good? Please advise
Full Version: R.I.P.
Alright, I've read the topic, but still a bit unsure of myself
What CD-Rs can I safely buy and know that they won't die on me? I'm talking like the actual label on the package that you see in the store.
I currently use Maxell CD-R Pros. They seem to have a blue dye. Bad? Good? Please advise
What CD-Rs can I safely buy and know that they won't die on me? I'm talking like the actual label on the package that you see in the store.
I currently use Maxell CD-R Pros. They seem to have a blue dye. Bad? Good? Please advise
I am not sure what to make of this. CMC Magnetics has the greatest number of failures in this poll, but thati might be like asking what brand of car do you own that broke down? Chances are that Fords and Chevys would leat the list because there are so many of them.
I have purchased CMC Magnetics CD-R's under the Imation, TDK, HP and GQ (Fry'S) brands. In fact, since thery don't tell you what is inside the package you have no way of knowing until you get home. It just seems like CMC Magnetics is the dominant brand. Try as I may, I never seem to wind up with anything else. So it must be the Ford or Chevy of CD-R's.
By the way, I have had no problems with them. I just ran a few quality tests using CD-Speed and there was not a C2 error on any of them regardless of which drive or recording software I used.
I have purchased CMC Magnetics CD-R's under the Imation, TDK, HP and GQ (Fry'S) brands. In fact, since thery don't tell you what is inside the package you have no way of knowing until you get home. It just seems like CMC Magnetics is the dominant brand. Try as I may, I never seem to wind up with anything else. So it must be the Ford or Chevy of CD-R's.
By the way, I have had no problems with them. I just ran a few quality tests using CD-Speed and there was not a C2 error on any of them regardless of which drive or recording software I used.
QUOTE(Teej a.k.a T-Dj @ Mar 8 2004, 05:39 PM)
What CD-Rs can I safely buy and know that they won't die on me? I'm talking like the actual label on the package that you see in the store.
Look for Fujifilm brand "made in Japan" only. They are the Taiyo Yudens.
QUOTE(odious malefactor @ Mar 9 2004, 08:47 AM)
QUOTE(Teej a.k.a T-Dj @ Mar 8 2004, 05:39 PM)
What CD-Rs can I safely buy and know that they won't die on me? I'm talking like the actual label on the package that you see in the store.
Look for Fujifilm brand "made in Japan" only. They are the Taiyo Yudens.
Great, thanks! Now to find a store that sells Fujifilm brand CD-Rs made in japan
QUOTE
Great, thanks! Now to find a store that sells Fujifilm brand CD-Rs made in japan
Yeah, it's a bit tricky. Sometimes Walgreens has 'em. Last time I found some at CompUSA, but only the 30 pack was made in Japan.
I guess your best bet is to buy Taiyo Yuden branded media online.
QUOTE(odious malefactor @ Mar 14 2004, 12:21 PM)
QUOTE
Great, thanks! Now to find a store that sells Fujifilm brand CD-Rs made in japan
Yeah, it's a bit tricky. Sometimes Walgreens has 'em. Last time I found some at CompUSA, but only the 30 pack was made in Japan.
I guess your best bet is to buy Taiyo Yuden branded media online.
Actually, I found some today at WalMart. Fujifilm slim jewel case CD-Rs made in Japan. Thanks for your help
Anyone else ever buy some "That's Write" discs? I've had a few that - despite being well cared for - started skipping around in my Technics SL-P350 CD player (antique now, but still works after 12+ years), which rarely happens...
Anyway, all of the That's Write discs I have (bought in 2001-2002), started to discolour about a year ago. I have unbranded discs bought at the same sort of time which are still silver!
I haven't looked into testing any of these - I have a Plextor and it came with a copy of Plextools but it's honestly not something I've ever really needed (or even tried). Perhaps I should look into it...
As an aside, after having some bad experiences with TDK (having a HORRIBLE HP-8100 drive at the time didn't help - even after flashing with the hacked bios), I've been buying Sony CD-R's ever since, for important stuff. The current batch I have are in 50 disc spindles with the part no. 50CDG80SP5A. Indentifier and Nero say that these things are actually manufactured by Sony, and every disc I've burned has worked flawlessly. Perhaps these might be a good option for those that can't get hold of Taiyo Yunden discs (like myself... anywhere reputable in the UK selling these cheap?).
Anyway, all of the That's Write discs I have (bought in 2001-2002), started to discolour about a year ago. I have unbranded discs bought at the same sort of time which are still silver!
I haven't looked into testing any of these - I have a Plextor and it came with a copy of Plextools but it's honestly not something I've ever really needed (or even tried). Perhaps I should look into it...
As an aside, after having some bad experiences with TDK (having a HORRIBLE HP-8100 drive at the time didn't help - even after flashing with the hacked bios), I've been buying Sony CD-R's ever since, for important stuff. The current batch I have are in 50 disc spindles with the part no. 50CDG80SP5A. Indentifier and Nero say that these things are actually manufactured by Sony, and every disc I've burned has worked flawlessly. Perhaps these might be a good option for those that can't get hold of Taiyo Yunden discs (like myself... anywhere reputable in the UK selling these cheap?).
Green Memorexes. 
^^ Let Me guess... CMC's?
Just thought I'd add that I checked the Maxell CD-R Pro disks with EAC, and it identified them as Taiyo Yudens aswell!
phillips (i payed for it $1.40*5.3)
QUOTE(Teej a.k.a T-Dj @ Apr 11 2004, 03:57 PM)
Just thought I'd add that I checked the Maxell CD-R Pro disks with EAC, and it identified them as Taiyo Yudens aswell!
Be advised that Maxell sells two types of these discs ... I was unable to find any difference between the packages ... one is TY, the other is CMC ...
just picked up some Memorex's from compusa that were Riteks. First time I've seen Riteks as Memorex. Lucky me, in the last month I've gotten TY and Ritek from Memorex.
QUOTE(JeanLuc @ Apr 11 2004, 10:40 AM)
QUOTE(Teej a.k.a T-Dj @ Apr 11 2004, 03:57 PM)
Just thought I'd add that I checked the Maxell CD-R Pro disks with EAC, and it identified them as Taiyo Yudens aswell!
Be advised that Maxell sells two types of these discs ... I was unable to find any difference between the packages ... one is TY, the other is CMC ...
Really? Ouch.
I had two kinds of Maxell CD-R Pros both entirely different looking pakaging and disks (one had a blue top, the other one a gold one), but EAC identified both as TY. I'll have to watch out then.
A box of Lead Data (cyanine) discs sold as Memorex 700MB. Burned between 2 and 4 years ago, most of them are now becoming unplayable towards the end of the disc.
Also one Princo disc, branded Boeder 650MB, burned ~5 years ago, worked fine at first but now barely recognisable in most players (although still mostly readable in the drive it was burned in).
All the above burned in a Ricoh MP-7040A.
Also one Princo disc, branded Boeder 650MB, burned ~5 years ago, worked fine at first but now barely recognisable in most players (although still mostly readable in the drive it was burned in).
All the above burned in a Ricoh MP-7040A.
Do we have already a thread for bad DVD+/-R (RW) media, then this post should be moved, please ?
or maybe a new thread for dvd media ?
I have DVD writer NEC 1300 A with FW 1.08 (is it the latest?) and was really satisfied with DVD+R 4x speed from Ricoh 01/02 (or how they are labelled, could copy it from DVD-Identifier window,) so far.
Those Ricoh +R 4x speed were sold by several brands, ie. Philips sic !, the pack of Verbatim I bought, (German Aldi Medion), Platinum.
So, after my 5 packs trials and the surprise, that nearly every brand sold same Ricoh,
I bought a 25 spindle Platinum from local dealer.
All 25 discs were fine.
Then I bought those Platinum 25 from somebody at ebay.
These discs cause trouble at some files, which are burnt in the middle of the disc.
files burnt at begin, or end, are fine.
Most files check fine. But not some in a place lets say 1/3 -1/2 of possible space of the 4.7 GB.
These bad results were reproduceable, I made a direct comaprison file per file after nero burning.
The check against other media, ie. the same Ricoh label, but brand Medion from Aldi, a 5 pack, was successful, no bad files after burning.
or maybe a new thread for dvd media ?
I have DVD writer NEC 1300 A with FW 1.08 (is it the latest?) and was really satisfied with DVD+R 4x speed from Ricoh 01/02 (or how they are labelled, could copy it from DVD-Identifier window,) so far.
Those Ricoh +R 4x speed were sold by several brands, ie. Philips sic !, the pack of Verbatim I bought, (German Aldi Medion), Platinum.
So, after my 5 packs trials and the surprise, that nearly every brand sold same Ricoh,
I bought a 25 spindle Platinum from local dealer.
All 25 discs were fine.
Then I bought those Platinum 25 from somebody at ebay.
These discs cause trouble at some files, which are burnt in the middle of the disc.
files burnt at begin, or end, are fine.
Most files check fine. But not some in a place lets say 1/3 -1/2 of possible space of the 4.7 GB.
These bad results were reproduceable, I made a direct comaprison file per file after nero burning.
The check against other media, ie. the same Ricoh label, but brand Medion from Aldi, a 5 pack, was successful, no bad files after burning.
QUOTE(user @ Apr 21 2004, 12:25 AM)
Do we have already a thread for bad DVD+/-R (RW) media, then this post should be moved, please ?
or maybe a new thread for dvd media ?
or maybe a new thread for dvd media ?
The K-Probe Scan Repository is a good place to vist for DVD+/-R(W) quality tests.
Scans are done using KProbe1/2 so if you own a Lite-on drive you can contribute,
(Overseer@SpeedLabs Inc.)
QUOTE
Accepting scans now. PNG scans take the least space so If you save them as PNG files then great but I will also accept jpg and bmp.
Scans will be placed on line as soon as possible. But I have everything up and running properly now, so send your scans in.
If you want there is a template on the site you can use to minimise the time used by me setting the page up, but I will gladly set them up if you dont/cant.
Also to help me place the correct info up when sending scans please provide this info:
*Your Nickname
*Brand of disk
*Media code (Manufacturer)
*Speed of disk
*+ or -
*Drive and what drive is OC to
*Firmware
*Patch Version
*Corresponding scan settings used for each kprobe scan.
RULES OF UPLOAD
1. Nothing that is Illegal!
2. K-Probe Scans in .png Format (can also be bmp/jpg)
3. Make a directory from your nickname eg Overseer directory would be named "overseer".
4. Place your .png images in the directory you have made.
5. To help me integrate them into the main site could you please place different lots of scans into a dif sub-directory eg. nickname/k1.. k2.. k3...
6. To also help me in intergrating them into the main site could you place a text file explaining the Media Used and some information about the drive used at the time eg. 411s@811s @ HSOK MKII.
7. Do not delete another persons files!
Enjoy People!
EMAIL YOUR SCANS AND INFO TO overseer@overseer.info
Scans will be placed on line as soon as possible. But I have everything up and running properly now, so send your scans in.
If you want there is a template on the site you can use to minimise the time used by me setting the page up, but I will gladly set them up if you dont/cant.
Also to help me place the correct info up when sending scans please provide this info:
*Your Nickname
*Brand of disk
*Media code (Manufacturer)
*Speed of disk
*+ or -
*Drive and what drive is OC to
*Firmware
*Patch Version
*Corresponding scan settings used for each kprobe scan.
RULES OF UPLOAD
1. Nothing that is Illegal!
2. K-Probe Scans in .png Format (can also be bmp/jpg)
3. Make a directory from your nickname eg Overseer directory would be named "overseer".
4. Place your .png images in the directory you have made.
5. To help me integrate them into the main site could you please place different lots of scans into a dif sub-directory eg. nickname/k1.. k2.. k3...
6. To also help me in intergrating them into the main site could you place a text file explaining the Media Used and some information about the drive used at the time eg. 411s@811s @ HSOK MKII.
7. Do not delete another persons files!
Enjoy People!
EMAIL YOUR SCANS AND INFO TO overseer@overseer.info
The quote is taken from speedlabs forums.
I guess I've just been fortunate. Most of my discs are Memorex CD-Rs and I've yet to have one die minus bad scratching. Anything I think is valuable though gets burned onto at least 2 CDs. Can't be too careful.
I solved the riddle easily, why my first Platinum DVD+R 4xspeed 25 spindle was fine, but not my following Platinum 25 spindle.
The fine Platinums were RicohJPN0102,
the bad Platinum DVD+R 4x media: Ritek0102 !
Now i have Emtec (BASF) DVD+R 4x, a 25 spindle pack:
those are the fine RicohJPN0102 again,
and so not so surprisingly, the first written DVD checked ok.
Then I have some Verbatim DVD+R 4x in jewel case, the printable discs,
those are CMC , iirc as my check by dvdidentifier has shown.
Those checked fine, too, compare by bit content ok, but varying results by Nero tools cddvd speed read check.
iirc, Sony DVD+R 4x jewel case use CMC, too, and in past that medium checked ok for me, too.
edit addon:
I have read written by some german dvd experts, that the 25 pack spindle verbatim dvd+r 4x is normally CMC, and those aren't the best ?! The Verbatim dvd+r MCC , Mitsubishi Chemicals, should be the best.
It might be confusing me, and I will check my Sony dvd+r later, if those were CMC or MCC.
Nevertheless, the current verbatim dvd+r 4x 25 pack spindle CMC, gave good result so far with my nec 1300a writer.
(well, reading ok, bit for bit, but after burning various DVDs, the nero tool speed check resulted to different results, some discs perfect reading, some discs readable (according to bit-to-bit-comparison, but the dvd drive had to slow down for reading in Nero-cd-dvd-speed-tool).
btw, according to recommended media list by NEC for my NEC 1300A:
Ricoh & MCC media...
Those pics at Kprobe page aren't easy to interpret?
I haven't invested a lot time to investigate. Is there a short precise description somewhere, how those scans can be interpreted ?
The fine Platinums were RicohJPN0102,
the bad Platinum DVD+R 4x media: Ritek0102 !
Now i have Emtec (BASF) DVD+R 4x, a 25 spindle pack:
those are the fine RicohJPN0102 again,
and so not so surprisingly, the first written DVD checked ok.
Then I have some Verbatim DVD+R 4x in jewel case, the printable discs,
those are CMC , iirc as my check by dvdidentifier has shown.
Those checked fine, too, compare by bit content ok, but varying results by Nero tools cddvd speed read check.
iirc, Sony DVD+R 4x jewel case use CMC, too, and in past that medium checked ok for me, too.
edit addon:
I have read written by some german dvd experts, that the 25 pack spindle verbatim dvd+r 4x is normally CMC, and those aren't the best ?! The Verbatim dvd+r MCC , Mitsubishi Chemicals, should be the best.
It might be confusing me, and I will check my Sony dvd+r later, if those were CMC or MCC.
Nevertheless, the current verbatim dvd+r 4x 25 pack spindle CMC, gave good result so far with my nec 1300a writer.
(well, reading ok, bit for bit, but after burning various DVDs, the nero tool speed check resulted to different results, some discs perfect reading, some discs readable (according to bit-to-bit-comparison, but the dvd drive had to slow down for reading in Nero-cd-dvd-speed-tool).
btw, according to recommended media list by NEC for my NEC 1300A:
Ricoh & MCC media...
Those pics at Kprobe page aren't easy to interpret?
I haven't invested a lot time to investigate. Is there a short precise description somewhere, how those scans can be interpreted ?
QUOTE(user @ Jun 27 2004, 11:39 AM)
Those pics at Kprobe page aren't easy to interpret?
I haven't invested a lot time to investigate. Is there a short precise description somewhere, how those scans can be interpreted ?
I haven't invested a lot time to investigate. Is there a short precise description somewhere, how those scans can be interpreted ?
Check the new c't magazine coming out on Monday, they compare different quality testing methods: "Audiodev CATS DVD pro" hardware analyzer, CD-DVD Speed 3.01 on Nu Tech DW-082, KProbe 2.1 on Lite-On SOHW-832S and Plextools Pro 2.14 on PX-708A.
The conclusion about KProbe is that it's not consistent. Depending on the drive (different Lite-On models) you get completely different results that don't match the hardware analyzer's reference.
With CD-DVD speed, the results are depending more on the read speed that on the actual write quality, and again it's inconsistent among different drives.
Only Plextools give a rough estimation about quality, although the curves don't match with the Audiodev ones, but at least you could differentiate good and bad burns. It downplays the amount of errors, though.
Hi!
I have KProbe tested 15 cd-r's burned from 1995 until now, and I get some interesting results. The ones that are more than 8 years old works just fine (but the green color is darker now I think). I tested the one that got worst results (189 C2 errors) in another program CD Check, and there it was no problem reading the full cd.
Well, if anyone is courius, here is the results... tests
(I ran xp in safe mode to get it to work right, but how much I tried, I couldn't read the manufacturer of any cd-r's I have, in either the LiteOn DVD-Rom or my Samsung CD burner... strange)
I have KProbe tested 15 cd-r's burned from 1995 until now, and I get some interesting results. The ones that are more than 8 years old works just fine (but the green color is darker now I think). I tested the one that got worst results (189 C2 errors) in another program CD Check, and there it was no problem reading the full cd.
Well, if anyone is courius, here is the results... tests
(I ran xp in safe mode to get it to work right, but how much I tried, I couldn't read the manufacturer of any cd-r's I have, in either the LiteOn DVD-Rom or my Samsung CD burner... strange)
QUOTE
The conclusion about KProbe is that it's not consistent. Depending on the drive (different Lite-On models) you get completely different results that don't match the hardware analyzer's reference.
Can you post a scan of this review? Most tests at CD freaks, Speedlabs etc. show pretty consistent results of which media performs well & which doesn't even if PI/PO levels may vary slightly depending the drive/firmware. It maybe a good idea to scan a pressed DVD with your drive to use as a reference.
QUOTE(westgroveg @ Jun 29 2004, 03:07 AM)
Can you post a scan of this review?
Sure, although it was more of a sidenote. The real test is about DVD+R double-layer burning at 2.4x (which works quite well) and conventional DVD+-R single-layer burning at 8x and above (which is a desaster).
Anyway, here are the graphs. Topmost is the reference scan of the Audiodev hardware analyzer, which is widely used in the industry. The red line is the PI Sum 8 limit, so you see that the third burned DVD is of even worse quality than the second one (different scale).
As for KProbe, you see that it shows a good quality for the first DVD, which is ok. It shows the second DVD as having bad quality, but the graph doesn't match the hardware tester. For the third burn, it attests a great quality, even though it's totally beyond spec in reality. Only with the Plextools you get a rough idea of the quality here.
Click to view attachment
Anybody try MMobile Fidelity Sound Lab's new Ultradisc CD-R yet?
I have some interesting results of CD-R's dating back as far as March 1995 which contradict some of PIO's results.
Will post ASAP.
Will post ASAP.
These are the oldest in my collection of CD-R's, they where burnt by a friend of mine in Argentina & I now have them in Australia they where stored in a humid environment while in Argentina & a hot environment while in Australia (never exposed to sunlight though) & they have no scratches (flawless). The only thing they have in common is they all have gold dye.
TDK
Mitsui_1
Mitsui_2
Mitsui_3
Princo
King Pro Mediatek
Ricoh
TDK
Mitsui_1
Mitsui_2
Mitsui_3
Princo
King Pro Mediatek
Ricoh
I've always got much better (though not prerfect) results with gold CDRs than silver.
The fact that my silver CDR got yellow proves that there was some SO2 attacking them, with light. If I'm not mistaken, silver turns yellow because of sulfur (can anyone confirm ?), and I've learned in school that silver can't turn yellow without light. If my problems, or a part of them, come from the metal, then keeping them in the dark would have improved their lifetime significantly.
The fact that my silver CDR got yellow proves that there was some SO2 attacking them, with light. If I'm not mistaken, silver turns yellow because of sulfur (can anyone confirm ?), and I've learned in school that silver can't turn yellow without light. If my problems, or a part of them, come from the metal, then keeping them in the dark would have improved their lifetime significantly.
yes, if they really use Gold particles/surface for the pressing, it will be chemically more stable than compared to a silver surface.
Silver (Ag) can be attacked/oxidized by Sulfur, S. The result would be Silversulfid, something black, maybe in low concentrations/thin films on surfaces 'yellow-brownish'.
To initiate a chemical reaction, you need often somehow a starter, to overcome a certain energy barrier, which you could overcome in a lot reactions by light, as sunlight contains UV wavelengths, which are quite powerful.
If I think of CD-R with organic compounds layers for the data, which are written/burned by our CD-writer lasers, then you know immediately, that any sunlight, maybe other light sources, too, are poison to CD-R.
Silver (Ag) can be attacked/oxidized by Sulfur, S. The result would be Silversulfid, something black, maybe in low concentrations/thin films on surfaces 'yellow-brownish'.
To initiate a chemical reaction, you need often somehow a starter, to overcome a certain energy barrier, which you could overcome in a lot reactions by light, as sunlight contains UV wavelengths, which are quite powerful.
If I think of CD-R with organic compounds layers for the data, which are written/burned by our CD-writer lasers, then you know immediately, that any sunlight, maybe other light sources, too, are poison to CD-R.
Mitsumi.
I've burn on many media, but these mitsumi are crap! EAC cannot secure RIP from 3 months old CDR. (I've burnt them myself, using EAC+CUE sheet)
I've lost several CDs with this scrap.
I've burn on many media, but these mitsumi are crap! EAC cannot secure RIP from 3 months old CDR. (I've burnt them myself, using EAC+CUE sheet)
I've lost several CDs with this scrap.
QUOTE(Pio2001 @ Jul 6 2004, 10:33 AM)
I've always got much better (though not prerfect) results with gold CDRs than silver.
The fact that my silver CDR got yellow proves that there was some SO2 attacking them, with light. If I'm not mistaken, silver turns yellow because of sulfur (can anyone confirm ?), and I've learned in school that silver can't turn yellow without light. If my problems, or a part of them, come from the metal, then keeping them in the dark would have improved their lifetime significantly.
The fact that my silver CDR got yellow proves that there was some SO2 attacking them, with light. If I'm not mistaken, silver turns yellow because of sulfur (can anyone confirm ?), and I've learned in school that silver can't turn yellow without light. If my problems, or a part of them, come from the metal, then keeping them in the dark would have improved their lifetime significantly.
You aren't confusing silver with aluminum ?
From http://www.roxio.com/en/support/discs/cdrmfg.html
QUOTE
There are four metals that are inert to polycarbonate and sufficiently reflective to be used as a reflective layer. These are gold, silver, copper, and aluminum. Aluminum is the most cost-efficient and most widely used for prerecorded pressed discs, but most CD-R discs use gold or silver because of their greater reflectivity. Since the translucent dye polymer layer reduces the amount of laser light that is reflected back from the disc, a highly reflective metal is desirable.
I was just asking, because silver sulfide (Ag2S) will turn black, not yellow - just try to eat an egg with a silver spoon. Silver Sulfite (AgSO3), the most probable silver/sulphur combination in presence of SO2 might be of yellow colour but cannot be created without the presence of water (air humidity, along with the fact that polycarbonate can take up water up to 1,5 mass percent might be sufficient) to create H2SO3 wich might then corrode silver ...
ITS TIME TO UPDATE THE LIST
checking back cd-rs burnt 3 yrs back
ops.....found out "plasmon" rotten
black spots appear.
the data is till recoverable but i don't the disc will stand any longer
Plasmon is one of the worst brand i'd ever seen
Plasmon CD-R loads 2 times slower than brands like ritek, acer, mitsubishi, prodisc
but its still better than CMC
pressed CD - ~3 sec
ritek, acer, mitsubishi, prodisc - ~4 sec
Plasmon ~ 8 sec
CMC magnetics ~ 24 sec
checking back cd-rs burnt 3 yrs back
ops.....found out "plasmon" rotten
black spots appear.
the data is till recoverable but i don't the disc will stand any longer
Plasmon is one of the worst brand i'd ever seen
Plasmon CD-R loads 2 times slower than brands like ritek, acer, mitsubishi, prodisc
but its still better than CMC
pressed CD - ~3 sec
ritek, acer, mitsubishi, prodisc - ~4 sec
Plasmon ~ 8 sec
CMC magnetics ~ 24 sec
One cheaper class Maxell died on me a few days after burning. I still dont get how this could happen? There wasnt a single scratch on the cd.
And I wrote the disk at a safe speed of 8x, wierd.
And I wrote the disk at a safe speed of 8x, wierd.
Sony should be in Highest quality brands not Low quality brands.
i use High Speed Sony CD-RW (650 MB 4x-10x) and never have problems with them
one of them, i erase it and rewrite on it more than 25 times and it is still working perfectly
these are very good :
Kodak CD-R
Fujifilm CD-R 80
Verbatim
maxell are crap
my burner is YAMAHA CRW2100E 16x10x40
i use High Speed Sony CD-RW (650 MB 4x-10x) and never have problems with them
one of them, i erase it and rewrite on it more than 25 times and it is still working perfectly
these are very good :
Kodak CD-R
Fujifilm CD-R 80
Verbatim
maxell are crap
my burner is YAMAHA CRW2100E 16x10x40
What about black CD-R's? Are they better than the gold ones?
QUOTE(sergelac @ Sep 23 2004, 11:32 PM)
Sony should be in Highest quality brands not Low quality brands.
i use High Speed Sony CD-RW (650 MB 4x-10x) and never have problems with them
one of them, i erase it and rewrite on it more than 25 times and it is still working perfectly
these are very good :
Kodak CD-R
Fujifilm CD-R 80
Verbatim
maxell are crap
my burner is YAMAHA CRW2100E 16x10x40
i use High Speed Sony CD-RW (650 MB 4x-10x) and never have problems with them
one of them, i erase it and rewrite on it more than 25 times and it is still working perfectly
these are very good :
Kodak CD-R
Fujifilm CD-R 80
Verbatim
maxell are crap
my burner is YAMAHA CRW2100E 16x10x40
RW is a whole other beast than -R. I think you will find that most people here use -r, and mostly for audio. And of the brans you listed, with the exeption of Kodak, they could be anything. You need the ATIP info.
QUOTE(Ashed @ Sep 23 2004, 11:41 PM)
What about black CD-R's? Are they better than the gold ones?
SHort answer. No. Might be better in some older readers, but in generally have lower reflectivity and are usually CMC.
QUOTE(sergelac @ Sep 23 2004, 07:32 PM)
Sony should be in Highest quality brands not Low quality brands.
I can simply explain why,
The first Sony Manufactured CD-R I used is "Sony 700MB/80min Supremas"
Very bad CD-Rmy writer Artec WRR-52 refuses to write more than 74min on this media, and the speed is restircted to 40X and below
Sony CD-RW 4x-10x....650MB, are you sure they are sony?,
i think they are rebranded Mitsubishi disc, that's why they are good.
Almost all the 650MB CD-RW are Mitsubishi... I don't see any other manufacturer produce 650MB CDRW.
Verbatim's CD-R are marginal to good CD-R
"DataLifePlus (Azo)" are the best of Verbatim, they use Mitsubishi Chemical Corp. dye
"Datalife Pastel" are the best of verbatim too! they are Taiyo Yuden
DataLife/Valulife........Be careful! they are CMC!
I've seen many bad reports about CMC, but i found out that Imation CMC are quite good!
It depends if they are Datalife Plus Super Azo or Datalife Plus Metal Azo. Metal Azo is the old traditional dark blue Verbatim. Super Azo are the new ones optimized for high speed. However, they have problems at... high speed !
QUOTE(Ashed @ Sep 24 2004, 05:41 AM)
What about black CD-R's? Are they better than the gold ones?
Black CDRs can be silver or gold. It's the plastic that is black. The silver ones that I got, from HiSpace, were manufactured by MPO. They had some C2 errors right after burning and quickly died. I don't remember who manufactred the Memorex ones, but for me they were worse.
What about panasonic and verbatim dvd-ram
are they good quality brands ?
are they good quality brands ?
Hi,
after I occasionally found this thread, I decided to join the party:
Recently I have reburned some 4+ year old CD-Rs due to read errors. I kept the originals though. So I fired up CDRidentifier and here are the results: (They fit quite nicely with the list at the beginning)
The worst of all CDs with lots of C2 and quite some CU errors was... CMC Magnetics (guessed that?
)
Next worst was LeadData, directly followed by AMS Technologies (never heard of them). Those AMS discs were sold under the Tevion/Lifetec brand in german supermarket chain ALDI.
Another disk I backed up (more out of fear that all my old CDs are crap now) was a Ritek but it was still perfectly readable (6,3avg/40max C1,no C2 or CU).
All discs (except one) were burnt with an old trusty PX-820i SCSI burner. They were stored in jewelcases (and therefore dark) under normal environmental conditions (not like Pio's)
greets,
weaker
after I occasionally found this thread, I decided to join the party:
Recently I have reburned some 4+ year old CD-Rs due to read errors. I kept the originals though. So I fired up CDRidentifier and here are the results: (They fit quite nicely with the list at the beginning)
The worst of all CDs with lots of C2 and quite some CU errors was... CMC Magnetics (guessed that?
)Next worst was LeadData, directly followed by AMS Technologies (never heard of them). Those AMS discs were sold under the Tevion/Lifetec brand in german supermarket chain ALDI.
Another disk I backed up (more out of fear that all my old CDs are crap now) was a Ritek but it was still perfectly readable (6,3avg/40max C1,no C2 or CU).
All discs (except one) were burnt with an old trusty PX-820i SCSI burner. They were stored in jewelcases (and therefore dark) under normal environmental conditions (not like Pio's
)greets,
weaker
Another (near) dead CD-R, it contained an Audio-CD. It still plays in the stand anlone player, has big problems any computer drive.
Lots of C2 errors in Nero Speedtest
This was a Traxdata Silver (80min) burned end of 1999
ATIP info from disk
ATIP start of lead out: 79:59:74 (sector: 359999)
Manufacturer code: 97 31 00 - Ritek Co. (Type: 0)
Lots of C2 errors in Nero Speedtest
This was a Traxdata Silver (80min) burned end of 1999
ATIP info from disk
ATIP start of lead out: 79:59:74 (sector: 359999)
Manufacturer code: 97 31 00 - Ritek Co. (Type: 0)
Ty are the best for me and play in "any" cdplayer.
I have TY with 10 years +- sold as philips x4 and still impecable.
I have TY with 10 years +- sold as philips x4 and still impecable.
If you have failed discs that have also changed looks (visual impairments like color defects, pinholes, etc), then please post a picture here if you can.
I'm also interested in high resolution images (pictures) of failed discs.
You can send them to me via e-mail if you want: halcy at tiscali dot fi.
Cheers,
halcyon
I'm also interested in high resolution images (pictures) of failed discs.
You can send them to me via e-mail if you want: halcy at tiscali dot fi.
Cheers,
halcyon
QUOTE(weaker @ Sep 28 2004, 04:09 PM)
Those AMS discs were sold under the Tevion/Lifetec brand in german supermarket chain ALDI.
These were the older 650 MB types they sold @ Aldi before switching to 700MB RITEK, right ?
On a more positive note:
I just scanned a batch of Kodak Infoguard Gold (no speed rating) CD-R discs burned between 1993-1999.
All of them read back with very few C1 errors (on both LiteOn and Plextor drives) and no c2 errors at all.
So, using quality media, it is possible to get to the 10 year mark with data in tact, if the media is stored/handled properly.
I just scanned a batch of Kodak Infoguard Gold (no speed rating) CD-R discs burned between 1993-1999.
All of them read back with very few C1 errors (on both LiteOn and Plextor drives) and no c2 errors at all.
So, using quality media, it is possible to get to the 10 year mark with data in tact, if the media is stored/handled properly.
QUOTE(Halcyon @ Oct 15 2004, 05:03 AM)
On a more positive note:
I just scanned a batch of Kodak Infoguard Gold (no speed rating) CD-R discs burned between 1993-1999.
All of them read back with very few C1 errors (on both LiteOn and Plextor drives) and no c2 errors at all.
So, using quality media, it is possible to get to the 10 year mark with data in tact, if the media is stored/handled properly.
I just scanned a batch of Kodak Infoguard Gold (no speed rating) CD-R discs burned between 1993-1999.
All of them read back with very few C1 errors (on both LiteOn and Plextor drives) and no c2 errors at all.
So, using quality media, it is possible to get to the 10 year mark with data in tact, if the media is stored/handled properly.
Halcyon, do you think you could provide some scans?
I would attribute their long life due to the gold contained, not the media brand. If you check my list of old CD-R's scans I have a low quality brand (Princo) & it has lasted 7 years with no C2 errors.
What I would really like to see is 10+ years from non gold Kodak media, as I remember silver Kodak's where reported to be troublesome, that's why I bumped Kodak down on the quality rating list.
never again princo
QUOTE(alfa156 @ Mar 10 2005, 09:36 AM)
never again princo
yep. The Sony ones suck too. For instance, the Sony Supremas 700MB are not useable for Data stored after the 74 Minutes mark...I burned some 690 MB rar archive on it and right after burning the archive was already corrupt...how can they sell such CD's as 700MB blanks? That's fraud...
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