Well I went to use my speakers and the right channel one didn't work right.

It has a woofer and a mid channel and a high channel speaker in the cabinet. The woofer is very very stiff anddoesn't produce any sound. I tried pressing it in and it feels like there is some sort of resistance? I dont know, my brother was listening earlier.. any suggestions?

Obviously, switch the speakers around to see if that speaker is faulty.

No they are old speakers that I have had for 20+ years. They are San-Sui (SP).

Also what do you mean? And I have tried using it on theo ther channel if thats it?

Well if one of the speakers doesn't make a sound (and you have tried it on the other channel), then... it's not ok.
What was it you wanted to know?

So is the speaker garbage? They are 1500$ speakers that sound pretty damned good....... no way to fix it?

Does the speaker feeling like it has resistance going in and out sound like its blown?

No. The speakers casing is not where the sound is produced, so if it is producing no sound at all this has nothing to do with the stiffness you feel.

The stiffness is in the woofer itself... it cant bounce in and out and do what it does.

Sorry, perhaps I was unclear. There is a small wire that vibrates according to the electrical signal it receives behind the woofer. This is what creates the sound. If the woofer is making no sound at all then the stiffness has nothing to do with this. if however it is creating very faint sounds, it could be the problem.

If the woofer cone is very stiff it is possible that the suspension of the driver has failed. What this means is that the voice coil (the coil of wire which the current to the driver flows through) is touching the magnet (the large black thing at the back of the driver). This is generally caused by overheating and cannot be easily repaired.

However, if none of the three drivers are making a sound and you are sure the amp channel is working (have you tried a multimeter?) then it is likely to be a blown crossover component or a loose connection in side the speaker. This can probably be fixed very cheaply. If there are electrolytic capacitors in the crossover they have very likely failed - 20 years is very old for electrolytic caps - especially ones that were being made that long ago.

well the mid range and high range ones are fine. If no power is being put through at all it is still stiff.

Actually when i fist noticed it i oressed on the woofer and it wouldn't move at all.. then it felt like it gave way and now moves but stiffly.

Please guys this is really troubling me.. I couldn't even sleep last night

Cabbagerat seems to know what he is talking about.

Do you know where you can take the speakers for repair?
What is the model number?

I really want to do it myswelf because I have no money. Im not sure of the model number.. i dont see why you need it.

Also do you think from him listening real loud the wire could have fallen off the speaker and attached itself to the magnet?

Ohnvm I read his posy wrong. Does that mean that the actual magnet may beed to be taken apart?

I have a feeling that this could help you: http://www.speakerbits.com/net/misc/partsDiagram.aspx and http://www.speakerbits.com/net/resources/p...ploded_view.gif

Even under normal listening conditions, the voice coils in speaker drivers get extremely hot (50 degrees above ambient is not unusual). When you turn up the volume, this heat increases and damages the driver. In most cases like this from "listening really loud" the failure is caused by glue or bonding between the cone and the voice coil former failing. The glue between the coil and the former can also melt.

Another failure mode is that the cone moves too far and falls off it's suspension. You can normally tell when this happens because the spider breaks or tears.

There are ways to fix failed drivers (Google should help) but generally you will need to replace the affected driver and any burnt out crossover components.

Holy crap. There is no way I can just open it up and fix it no money costed??

It's possible that it's something that can be corrected yourself, but rather unlikely. Google should point you in the right direction as far as repairing drivers goes.

What does the woofer feel when you push it? Is it stuck solid somewhere, or is it stiff but smooth? If it feels like scratching something when moved, its a voice coil. do NOT push it too far in, or you'll damage it further.
If it feels smooth, and returns back eventually, then probably some crossover component shorted, like electrolytics. The latter is the only thing you can fix cheaply yourself.

Note that such speaker is dangerous to your amp, and amp is dangerous to your speaker. Don't even think of turning volume up in desperation.

Feels like scratching.

Thats the cabinet

Also it says on it 50 watt max... I think the AMP is 150!

This is my parents remember

I dont want them to know about the speaker.

I'm sorry to tell you the bad news, but this driver is damaged beyond home (if any) repair.

Your only option is to find the same driver unit (woofer+magnet assembly) and replace it. Amounts to digging deep inside.

Finding a replacement woofer for an old SANSUI speaker ? Good luck

Its more likely he will find a complete speaker on ebay . Only real alternative would be to unmount the working woofer from the other speaker, connect it to an impedance measuring device and plot the impedance curve from 20 - 2000 Hz, measure the DC resistance with a multimeter and calculate the electrical quality parameters

F s
Q es
Q ms
Q ts
V as
R dc

and then try to find a pair of replacement speakers from somewhere. I would never do this for tweeters or midrange, as it would imply serious rewokring of the crossover, but for a woofer it could work .....

Christian
matroska project admin
http://www.matroska.org

Not much short of divine intervention will help you dig up a replacement driver for a speaker over 10 years old, especially ones using no name drivers.

I think this one fits in the "more effort than it's worth" category. It's worth a try if you are very attached to these speakers, but you are unlikely to find a pair of replacement drivers for less than a pair of second hand speakers will cost.

Moral of the story: honour thy speaker power ratings.

Hehe what exactly does thta mean.. to unmount it?

unmount = take the woofer out of the cabinet, this generally means undoing four screws.

Why would I unmount it then?

You cant measure the parameters i was listing above as long as its still mounted, as these are the so-called 'free air parameters' ..... but judging from your answer, its probably better if you decide to sell them on ebay, with one defect woofer ( there may be somebody needing a replacement tweeter ), and buy a new pair of speakers ....

Christian

Some people use more than two speakers nowadays so you may be able to sell your good one singly.

Maybe ill be forced to listen to just the one when i play music.. its still enough to make the walls rattle.

Yeah, rattling walls produce hot voice coils

From your photo I think the aluminium dustcaps of midrange and tweeter are a little bit deformed.

Because, if you are lucky, one of the on-line part dealers or elsewhere may have a listing for what driver was used and maybe an equivalent replacement.

That would save you trying to measure all the parameters off the good one, which really seems beyond what you can manage.

..

Some gay guy at a party pushed them in

And it can easily make the walls rattle... It can go far neyond that before this happening trust me. On my amp when the volume is at like 2 the walls rattle and ive had it past 5.

Too sad that people always feel urged to squeeze curved things

Well, that's probably why you burned out the speaker in the first place. Most speakers made in the 70's were not really designed to be floor-shakers. If you're winding up the eq bass to 11 and powering them with 3 times the watts they were ment for, the other one is probably not long for this world either.

Actually they are floor shakers. They were the best you could buy at the time.. my grandparents owned a music store.

Well what I do now isuse the SanSui Cabinet for left channel and just use the right channels, center and sub of my Logitech z-5300.

It all actually sound pretty boomy and good.