I bought YAMAHA CDX-630E cdplayer on auction, and i have problem with this cdplayer. Tracks are changing immediately, but when i listen to music it often skip for about 10 seconds forward or backward. My cd's are clean and original and these cd's are playing normal on other cdplayer. What should I do with my cdplayer? I think laser is clean, because when I switch track it find it always in less than 1 second.

If it fails with pressed CDs, it is probably defective or the laser lens is dirty after all. I had two cases where the reading and skipping problem could be cured by simply cleaning the lens with isopropanol. E.g. cigarette smoke can quickly lead to deposits on the lens that make it less transparent and prone to skipping.
However, if you just bought the player it might be better not to mess about with it and simply return it as defective.

The problem with old CD players skipping often comes from the wearing of the parts that guide the optical block from the beginning to the end of the CD.
Find the metallic parts on which the block moves, and polish them. Or if there is one plane surface, just put some adhesive tape on it (beware to avoid any folds), so that the moving part runs on the smooth side of the tape instead of the weared metallic suface.

Done around 1998 on a Yamaha CDX860 from 1991, while it was begenning to skip during playback. It still runs perfectly now.

Before performing these hard operations, try to solve the problem by greasing the guiding mechanism. It is greased when a player is new and of course the grease dissolves over time. I haven't tried this by myself because of lack of a defective player, but read about it. Someone with similar problems could solve them this way.

Everyone, please remember taking the case off any electrical item (doesnt matter if its unplugged) is extremely dangerous. It keeps a charge, and you can get a nasty, and possibly life threatening shock. Do not do it in any circumstances or you may pay for it with your life. Ive been shocked to many times to count, and im an expert.

Sounds like either dry joints or a faulty laser head. If you must open it look for damaged gears, belts and such. Its really hard to know what these problems are unless you know what your looking for, and i cant remember any of the CDX 630e's normal problems that would cause this (doesnt mean they dont exist). I havent seen one for awhile now. Do not put normal 'customer' grease on your units or any reason, you will most likely do more damage then good.
Just dont put on to much grease, lots is bad and can hinder the unit more then fixing.

edit - removed last line because precisionist is right, its complete BS !

edit2 - helps if i spell the name right!

Sounds pretty much like you're a Yamaha engineer and want to earn some money for a little task.

Nevertheless, his warning is sensible: If you open an (of course, unplugged) electrical item, keep your hands and any metal item (screwdrivers) away from the voltage transformer and the related condensers. They can keep an electric charge, it should be discharged after some time, though.
I started to ignore "risk of electric shock" warning long time ago - otherwise one never comes far. I've also already been shocked two times by 230V power supply and I'm still alive; but believe me, that's really nasty.
There's a second danger one should be aware of: Disc players and recorders contain a laser to read the discs - keep your eyes away from activated lasers. The red light of the SPDIF system on the back side are harmless; this is not a laser, it's a normal diode.
as for the grease: I read this once in an article from some consumer who used consumer grease and it solved the problem...

Lol! Sorry, but you are right it sounds just like that. Thats what i get for writing something at 2am in the morning. I want to revise my last post atucally, what i said at the end about qualified Yamaha specialists is complete bullshit! Check peoples repair track records, and dont just rely on the references from a store..

If you are going to try it yourself, read as much as you can. Look for where the power plug goes in AND AVOID THE POWER SUPPLY PART! Do not touch that with anything under any circumstances!

Best tips are, dont remove circut boards out of the case, they can be tricky to not damage while removing. Check the gears that you can see, remove any belts you are sure you can easily put back on and check they are the right shape (egg shaped = bad). Dont apply to much grease to it if you are going to try greasing. A thin coating is usually safe. Look for grease stains to see if it is supposed to be there.

Most important tip here, if you are going to take it in for repairs after trying to fix it yourself, DONT TELL THE GUY YOU TRIED TO FIX IT YOURSELF! They will charge you thru the ass for it, say you took it to an eletronic repairist sort of place and he said he couldnt fix it.

Why do you do this ? Was it intention or rather an accident ?
You might get banned if you intentionally and knowingly provide wrong information..


My name just means that I like precision, especially on audio things. I hope it doesn't sound arrogant.

Thank You very much. Today I've got time to repair my cdplayer - I've polished metal part and I put small amout of grease on it and cdplayer works fine

Does the player have a digital out ?
If yes, you could test the player by recording a song bit-truely to hard disc. Do it twice, cut silence at the beginnings and ends and compare with EAC's wav compare function. The files must be identical.

Yes - it have Digital Out, but my sound card doesn't have digital in...

Hm, I rather expected your player to lack digital output because it's old.
Do you have any other mean of getting the signal bit-truely onto hard disc ? This may be e.g. a HI-MD recorder with USB connector or a standalone CD recorder, to make a CD which you can rip...

edit: Please correct me if I'm mistaken, but as far as I remember a HI-MD recorder is capable of recording losslessly.

To play music I don't use digital out, because I have old amplifier, so testing digital out for me is unnecessary.

That isn't the point. I suggest to test if the player plays bit-truely, not if the digital out is bit-true (but that's also tested then). You can't do this through the analog output. But it seems that the issue is a bit too 'precise' for you, so I better shut up.