The drive isn't inaccurate. The errors are not absolute things, they are a measure of how well THAT drive reads that CD. If another drive reports fewer errors, it means it read the disk more easily. If it reports more errors, that means it had more trouble with the disk. Quite possibly the errors don't exist, any more than errors exist on the eye doctor's chart. The error is in the reader, not the source.
This in not to say that unreadable conditions never exist on a CD, they certainly do. The testing however, is not about the CD per se but about the reading process. The CD might be very good by objective standards but a particular drive reports errors, not because it is wrong or inacurate in its reporting, but because, by goodness, it just had trouble reading that disk. Likewise, a poorer quality disk (e.g. less contrast between the dye marks and the background) might be read with few reported errors because the drive just read well in spite of that difficulty.
The real value of the test, as had been reported a great many times, is to use it to find out which media, at which write speed, gives you the fewest errors. Then you create all your CD-R with those disks at that speed.
A second great value is to make a record of the read errors soon after creating the disk. Save the record. Later, a year, or three, or whenever, test it again. If the errors are significantly higher, the disk is probably deteriorating. Maybe you used poor quality blanks and should consider another brand. Maybe something else is wrong, but you probably want to fix it so your CDs don't all die.
This test presumes that the drive you are testing with hasn't itself changed greatly over that time. you can somewhat verify this by comparing very recently made CD-Rs with your saved results from earlier times.
So I get so low C1 errors because my Lite-On drive has very easy to read my burnt CD-R discs?
I did a analyze of a Kodak CD-R Ultima that was burnt in October 2001, and I got higher numbers for sure but they are still good:
When writing a AudioCD you should have 0 C2 errors and I always do, but when I burn a Video DVD I can never get the C2 levels down to 0.
Can't C2 levels be 0 on a DVD? Are there any guidelines how many C2 errors that is acceptable on a DVD?